Off the beaten track

Get off the beaten track and have a ball. We tell you how!

More than half of the roads in Australia are unsealed. And more often than not, they lead to some of the most beautiful parts of this country. This is why more and more RVers are heading off the beaten track with rough-road ready caravans and camper trailers.

But it's not all plain sailing and RVers heading off-road have to contend with truck-torn tracks, creek crossings and soft sand - all the things that make a holiday an adventure. That adventure can fast become a nightmare if you're not properly prepared or equipped.

It's vital, when choosing a rough-road RV that you look past the stickers. A poorly built rough-road RV will literally be shaken to bits on rough roads. Aussie roads can be tough on gear and if you're planning to do any serious bush bashing you've got to go to one of the specialist makers. As good as the mainstream rough-road 'vans are, they're just not tough enough for prolonged rough-road work. Think of them as a soft-roader.

To get out to the back of beyond and back again you'll want something with a reinforced chassis, large tyres (preferably the same pattern and track as that fitted to your four-wheel drive - it means you're only carrying one type of spare tyre), off-road suspension, decent ground clearance, adjusted departure angle and a four-wheel drive suitable hitch (like a Treg coupling).

Serious off-road caravans and campers aren't cheap, but then they're not built cheap either. Any of the name-brand makers - and this isn't an exhaustive list, just the names off the top of my head - like Kimberley, Trailmaster, Phoenix and Ultimate build really decent off-road RVs.

Tread carefully

They may look cool but tough, off-road spec tyres are almost useless on either a caravan or camper trailer. There's no power going to the wheels and so they provide minimal traction when off-road. That said, it's a good idea to match the tyres to those on your tow vehicle as it means you only have to carry one type of spare tyre.

Tyre pressures

Most off-roaders know that they need to adjust tyre pressures on their 4x4s to suit different conditions. However, it's just as important to adjust trailer tyre pressures.

The correct pressure relates to speed and load: the less speed or load (or both) the lower the pressures can be. For example, if you know you're limited to around 40km/h on a bush track, you don't need highway pressures in your 4x4 or your trailer tyres. Lower pressures increase the size of the tyre contact patches, improving traction. A bonus is improved ride quality, in the vehicle and the trailer.

A useful rule of thumb for correct pressure is a contact patch around 250mm in length for most track driving. If you're on soft sand, that contact patch length can increase to around 300mm. Don't drop pressures below 120kPa (16psi) or you risk rolling a tyre off its rim.

Knowing the limits

A camper trailer is a perpetual 'drag' on a 4x4 when it's running on level ground or uphill and it's a 'pusher' on steep downgrades. Anything you can do to limit the weight of the trailer will reduce the power, braking and traction demands on the towing vehicle.

As a general rule, avoid taking a camper trailer into situations that demand the full tractive ability of the towing vehicle. No-nos are very steep, loose, rocky or slippery tracks that demand double diff lock operation in solo vehicles - steep climbs in the Victorian High Country, for example.

Another area that can cause camper trailers to become stranded is big-dune country where the tracks meet the sand ridges at right angles, such as the French and QAA Lines in the Simpson Desert.

Narrow tracks cause problems for camper trailers, because manoeuvring ability is restricted if there are no cleared areas where you can turn around or avoid oncoming vehicles.

Getting out

As the TV commercial used to say: "One day, you're gonna get caught!" One day, you'll get your camper trailer stuck, somewhere, and any bogging should be seen as a warning that your intended path may not be ideal. The first step is assessing the situation.

The retrieval priorities are in this order: people, the 4x4 and, lastly, the trailer.

The 4x4 and trailer can often be driven out if the tyre pressures are lowered and the vehicle and trailer loads are reduced. If the stranding is caused by a patch of loose or slippery ground, or if the 4x4 or trailer is lightly grounded on a rock shelf, it may be possible to tow the combination out of the obstacle - gently.

Using a snatch strap on a 4x4 and coupled trailer is a no-no. If the 4x4 is stuck in soft sand it will need 'snatching', but the trailer must be uncoupled first. After the 4x4 is out of the bog hole the trailer can be towed across, or around the obstacle, using a long tow rope.

Allan Whiting & Isaac Bober // Photos by Arnold Archive

Australian Caravan & RV magazine, Winter 2008.