Plains, trains and automobiles

Central West - Plains, trains and automobiles

Can you imagine your local Bunnings refitted as a cosy wine bar in 100 years? Me either, but that’s more or less the history of Roth’s Wine Bar in Mudgee. A hardware store in its early days, its stone walls now enclose a ‘country chic’ establishment with a walk up bar, lounges, dining area, beer garden and a menu of tapas and wood-fired pizza.

We’ve driven there in the new Renault Megane hatch. Some liked the styling of the previous iteration, calling it ‘quirky’. I wasn’t among them. To me, it looked like someone had reversed a Hyundai i30 into a flatbed truck.

With sleek lines, a low profile, elegant alloy wheels and a sporty grille, the new hatch is among the best-looking cars in its segment. It is above euphemisms like ‘quirky’.

Well… until you get inside. The dash is on the wrong side of bland, the starter button is in a stupid place, the cup holder is almost useless, the glove box door hits the passenger’s knees and the driver could use another three inches of foot room. Silliest of all is the (easy to lose) remote control that operates the audio and sat nav. Whither touch screen?

Such are my initial impressions as my wife Kellie and I drive to our accommodation at Cooks Gap, 30km north-east of Mudgee.

Ruwenzori is the brainchild of actor and TV presenter Scott McGregor. Its charm can’t be captured in a photo or properly articulated in words. It is as much art form as accommodation.

During the 1980s, the NSW railways sold off a lot of its old assets. Every time train fanatic McGregor got money from an acting job he would buy something – one time it might be a train carriage (for $200!), another time it could be a seat or a sign. Ruwenzori came together in this piecemeal way, first as a holiday home for McGregor, and later as accommodation.

Living in it is like taking a 19th century rail journey (only without the rocking and rattling to keep you awake). It sleeps up to 12 but it’s single hire, so you have it to yourself. All the period features have been retained, and modern updates are sympathetic to the décor. We constantly find new things, hidden secrets. And in the morning we discover Ruwenzori’s private bushwalking tracks and the view of the surrounding valleys from its hilltop eyrie…

We drag ourselves away from our lodgings and drive to The Drip Gorge in the Goulburn River National Park. Scientist, environmentalist and local tourism operator Julia Imrie gives us a guided tour of the track leading into The Drip. Along the way she shows us what appear to be Aboriginal drawings on the far side of the river. They are actually the work of artist Brett Whitely (who painted them in the nude).

The Drip is central NSW’s answer to Katherine Gorge. A huge overhang shadows the river and moisture from the water table seeps through the rock and drips into it, hence the name.

That evening we attend Mudfest, Mudgee’s annual short film festival. At Bunnamagoo Estate an enormous movie screen is inflated and film fans spread out blankets on the grassy hill, dinner and wine at the ready. The smart ones are rugged up – even autumn nights in country NSW can be wintry.

Kellie and I score each film out of 10. Our taste in movies is rarely compatible, so it says something that The Lost Thing by Andrew Rhuemann and Shaun Tan emerges as our clear winner with 17 out of 20. The festival judges also award it first prize. People’s choice, however, goes to Family Values by Matthew Jenkin.

On Sunday we head into nearby Gulgong. It’s an old mining town famous for its association with Aussie writer and poet Henry Lawson. It’s therefore appropriate that musician and writer, Bob Campbell, gives us a town tour. 

Gulgong is well preserved – many buildings date back to the 19th century gold rush and its residents are fiercely protective of its heritage, right down to the sandstone gutters (which the council wanted to rip up).

Spun Out at Gulgong is a small business Patricia Bennett runs out of her garage. If it can be spun from wool, felt or fleece, Pat can spin it. She’s been doing it for 23 years and runs workshops to teach others. She gets Kellie to dye some wool and then shows her how to wrap it in cling wrap and ‘bake’ it in a microwave.

The evening brings a special treat – a private dinner in Ruwenzori’s dining car. Chef Janelle Bull and her mother whip up a five-star three-course meal that satisfies even my plebeian palate. The evening finishes with a very ‘Ruwenzori’ moment – tea served from an inscribed silver pot. It was a farewell gift for a rail worker who retired in 1937!

Our final stop before home is Capertee Valley Helicopters. Pilot Mark Lilley runs joyflights out of the helipad in his backyard. We soar over bushy national parks, sheer cliffs, the world’s widest canyon and remote shacks that sprang up during the gold rush.

As we head for Lithgow I realise the Megane has grown on me. Its CVT transmission is so smooth you hardly know it’s there and it mates well with the nippy 2.0-litre petrol engine. The seats are comfortable and vision is excellent given the tapered window line. Add in cargo space that can eat up two good-sized suitcases with room left for camera equipment, and you have a car that’s ready for touring.

So while there are some ‘ifs and buts’, the Megane is a relaxed and fun drive with real personality.

Personality? Oh well. That’s better than ‘quirky’, I guess.

And what’s that? You like wineries? Why not try Frog Rock. Cute name, nice ‘09 shiraz.