Drive the Great Dividing Range

North Coast NSW - Drive the Great Dividing Range

The Oxley Highway from Wauchope to Walcha, Waterfall Way from Bellingen to Armidale and, further north, the Bruxner and Gwydir Highways, all involve a steep climb up the eastern escarpment of the Great Divide, beautiful scenery and very little traffic.On these roads you see the country change from lush green coastal valleys, through wild forests on the range itself, to the relatively open, granite hills and gorges of New England.

The temperature can also fall by ten degrees, especially in winter when the Tableland, at 1000-plus metres, regularly gets snow.

A little known, remote, but spectacular alternative route is the Kempsey to Wollomombi Road, which was once a major artery from the mid-north coast to the northern inland.

This is a long, lonely drive - 175 km, with very few services along the way - but if you want to see how the north coast hinterland looked before developers and trendies moved in, the initial section of the drive is a trip back to a simpler, quieter time.

It runs along the Macleay Valley and passes through the tiny villages of Willawarrin and Bellbrook. In many sections, the road follows the southern bank of the Macleay River, a substantial waterway renowned for its bass fishing and canoeing; you also cross several small passes where the views up and down the valley are postcard perfect.

Bellbrook, 50 km west of Kempsey, is a National Trust listed village surrounded by state forests where, if you have a four-wheel drive, you can explore abandoned mining towns, rainforests, waterfalls and some spectacular lookouts such as Collombatti and McCoys. If the need for food beckons, have lunch at the historic Bellbrook Hotel, a picnic by the river or a barbecue in the park. Adjacent to the pub are six self -contained cabins, which are clean, comfortable and cheap.

Just beyond Bellbrook, the valley starts to narrow and the road turns to dirt. This stretch to the head of the valley is unsuitable for caravans. At times, the road is a winding single lane track; it also clings to the steep hillside right above the river in places. You need to be extremely careful of oncoming traffic, because there is nowhere to go - apart from into a cliff or over the side into the river - if quick evasive action is required.

Eighteen kilometres west of Bellbrook is the Blackbird Flat Recreation Reserve, a camping/picnic area on the banks of the Macleay with tables, barbecues, toilets and water.

Further on, near the end of the Macleay Valley, just before you head up to the Tableland, is Georges Creek, a favourite camping spot and launch base for canoeists, who ride the river all the way back to Kempsey.

The Great Divide ascent is steep, but not particularly difficult

Again, however, is not the sort of exercise you would undertake with a caravan hooked up to the family sedan.

Up in New England, you have a choice of route options. The Styx River Forest Way (signposted) turns off to the right, and heads east for 20 km through the forest to the entrance of New England National Park. This is one of the state’s gems - it is worth taking the time to visit Point Lookout, a 1500 metre eyrie from where, on a clear day, you can see the coast, 70 km away. Banksia Point and Wrights Lookout also offer long range views over the wilderness, which seems to stretch forever.

New England's walking tracks take you across beautiful wide tracts of sub alpine heathland, or under the edge of the escarpment, where cool rainforest wraps around you, and the wet cliffs overhead drip with cold clean water which, in winter, turns to icicles. The ever present mist gives the place an ethereal, magic feel.

Three cabins, which sleep 6-10 people, are available for visitors who come to the park for a few days bushwalking. Tom's Cabin is a basic hut, while further up the access road to Point Lookout, the Chalet and Residence provide larger, more salubrious (relatively speaking) accommodation. Bookings are essential. Camping is available at Thungutti and on the Styx River near the park entrance.

If you stay on the main road, it's only another 20 km, now on a wider, smoother track, to the bitumen at Wollomombi on the Armidale-Grafton Road, otherwise known as theWaterfall Way. Its worth taking a look at Wollomombi Falls (turn left; the falls are a couple of kilometres west of the intersection) which are the highest in the country and a mighty sight after rain. There's also a pleasant picnic/camping are adjacent to the falls. Armidale is 40 km west of Wollomombi.

Turn right at the bitumen and, in 30 km, you reach the main access road (Point Lookout Road) to New England National Park (a right turn) then, five kilometres on, the village of Ebor. Have a look at Ebor Falls on the edge of town, and sample the local specialty, smoked trout. Continue through Ebor if you're heading for Dorrigo (46 km) or Grafton (115 km.)

Image courtesy of NSW Tourism