Esk-ceptional Launceston

Launceston - Esk-ceptional Launceston

Explore historic Launceston, Australia's third oldest city

Wherever you are in Launceston, you're never far from the river.

Situated 50km from the north coast at the junction of the North Esk, South Esk and Tamar Rivers, Launceston is Tasmania's second largest city, and the third oldest city in Australia (after Sydney and Hobart). Its mix of Victorian and Georgian architecture and abundance of parks and gardens make it one of the country's prettiest cities.

Like many historical cities and towns, Launceston is best explored on foot. Most of the attractions, accommodation, and nightlife are within a four or five block radius of the city centre.

City Park

Start your exploration at City Park, the largest and most impressive of Launceston's many beautiful parks and gardens. Developed in the 1820's by Australia's first horticultural society, the park's 13 hectares feature fine Victorian gardens, a troop of Japanese macaques at Monkey Island, a giant chess board, a bandstand and a beautiful conservatory full of exotic hot house plants. At the park's entrance, the Design Centre of Tasmania showcases the best of Tasmanian timber design and craftsmanship with changing exhibitions of everything from furniture to sculpture in a specially-designed gallery space.

The well-stocked shop selling Tasmanian-made art and furniture is a great place to pick up a high-quality, original souvenir.

National Automobile Museum of Tasmania

Opposite the park, the National Automobile Museum of Tasmania is a must for car enthusiasts, housing an $8 million collection of cars and motorbikes from across the motoring era. Vehicles on show when the museum opened included: 1960s E-type Jaguar, three 1995 Ducati 916 motorbikes, Lamborghini Urraco, Ferrari 308 GTB, Maserati Merak, Stutz 8 limousine, Model T Ford van, 1949 Rolls Royce Silver Wraith, 1928 20-HP Rolls Royce, 1946 Packard Clipper and a 1961 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow.

Inveresk Cultural Precinct

Across the river is the Inveresk Cultural Precinct, where you'll find the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery, the largest museum and art gallery in Australia located outside a capital city. The Museum is located on two sites, the original purpose-built building in Royal Park and the Inveresk site, once the Launceston Railway Workshops. These once derelict railway workshops have been transformed into an innovative industrial museum with art galleries housing Australian colonial art, contemporary craft and design, blacksmith's shop, railways and migration exhibitions and more. The museum's sister site at Royal Park is linked by a riverside walkway.

You can continue walking on from Royal Park, still beside the river, to Cataract Gorge via Old Launceston Seaport and Kings Park. Along the way jump aboard a river cruiser at Home Point or drop into Ritchie's Mill and browse the provedore and treat yourself to the best lunch in town at Stillwater River Café.

During the day this elegant restaurant in the restored riverside mill has a casual café atmosphere with extensive outdoor dining overlooking the Tamar River and the basin yachts. At night, it's fine dining with Australian cuisine with a strong Asian influence and plenty of fresh Tasmanian seafood. Each dish is matched with the best local wine. 

Cataract Gorge

 Cataract Gorge, 10 minutes walk from the city centre, is a piece of wilderness in the heart of the city. The spectacular gorge extends from the mouth of the South Esk River at King's Bridge and winds its way up the river to the Trevallyn hydro electric dam 5km upstream. The reserve is popular with walkers, river rafters, rock climbers and abseilers. The chairlift crossing the gorge is the longest single span one in the world and there is a restaurant and a kiosk in the grounds. On the southern side of the basin is a 50-metre swimming pool which includes a full length wading pool for young children.

Penny Royal World

Other attractions include Penny Royal World, a theme park offering a variety 19th activities including a reconstructed 19th-century mill with a 16.5 metre windmill, a fort, a gunpowder mill, paddlesteamer and a cannon foundry.

Waverley Woollen Mills

You can visit a real mill, the Waverley Woollen Mills, on the edge of town. Established in 1874, this is Australia's oldest woollen mill. It also has a hydro electric generating plant which dates back to 1889 and which the company claims to be the oldest in the southern hemisphere. Conducted tours of the mill are available and you can buy woollen garments at the mill's showroom.

Boag's Brewery

Beer lovers can take a guided tour of the Boag's Brewery, which has been brewing on the banks of the Esk River since 1883. The tour takes in all the processes that produce the amber liquid and includes a free tasting at the end of the visit.

Day trips

Surrounded by pretty valleys and historic villages, Launceston also has plenty of great day trips. The Tamar Valley Wine Trail follows the course of the Tamar River north towards Beauty Point and, on the other side of the river, George Town, heading east through the hills of Pipers Brook area before looping back to Launceston. There are 21 wineries along the trail, all clearly signposted, producing Tasmania's best cool-climate wines.

Pinot noir, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay are the main varietals grown. Many of the wineries have restaurants, with Rosevears, Srathlynn and Pipers Brook the best choices for a long lazy lunch with a view.

Kids will love Seahorse World at Beauty Point, where you can tour the seahorse farm and see exotic seahorses, sea dragons and other endangered fresh water species and includes a touch pool for children.

Evandale, not far from Launceston airport south of the city, is a National Trust village of well-preserved 19th century buildings, many dating back to the early 1800s. Today, most have been converted into B&B accommodation or house antiques shops, galleries and bakeries. One of Australia's most unusual carnivals, the National Penny Farthing Championships, are held here on the last weekend of February every year. Just a few kilometres from town is one of the Trust's finest properties, Clarendon.

Built in 1838 for James Cox, wealthy woolgrower and merchant and son of William Cox, who pioneered the first road over the Blue Mountains in NSW, the elegant Georgian mansion has been restored and is fully furnished with extensive gardens.

Story by Lee Atkinson. March 2005. Image courtesy of Tourism Tasmania.