Changing a tyre is a straightforward process, but staying safety and using the right tools are essential to getting it done properly.
Following these seven simple steps will ensure you can safely replace a flat tyre and get back on the road with confidence.
Before you change your flat tyre, make sure you drive to a safe area with no risk to you or other road users. Driving a few hundred metres on a deflated tyre to move away from passing traffic and other hazards will ensure you are safe and won’t unduly damage the wheel rim.
Positioning the car on a hard, flat surface means everything will be stable when you jack up the car.
Before you start, put the car in park (or in gear if it’s a manual), make sure the handbrake is engaged, and turn on the hazard lights to warn other drivers.
Never change a tyre with your back to the traffic, and never, ever get under the car when it is on a jack.
If you can, place a chock such as a piece of wood or brick behind and in front of the tyre on the opposite side of the car. Now you’re safe and ready to start.
But if you are unsure or uncomfortable changing a tyre by yourself, you can call NRMA Roadside Assistance on 13 11 11 for help or book roadside assistance via the My NRMA app.
These items should have come with your vehicle:
The tools will usually be with the spare wheel and tyre in the boot. The owner’s manual will tell you where to find the jack and wheel brace – the tool to undo the wheel nuts or bolts – if you can’t see them.
The owner’s manual will also tell you the right place to put the jack for your car. It’s important these ‘jacking points’ are used: they’re strong enough to hold up the car, and jacking beneath the wrong part can cause damage. The jacking points are usually marked with small notches or grooves.
Once the jack is in place, slowly turn the handle clockwise until you remove some, but not all, of the car’s weight from the flat tyre.
The right technique to loosen the wheel nuts/bolts is important to ensure you don’t hurt yourself. Place the wheel brace on one of the wheel nuts/bolts, with a straight arm and a straight back, apply force to the nut in an anticlockwise direction, to slightly loosen each of them in turn.
If the nuts are tight, using your foot on the wheel brace can help you get them undone. Attach the wheel brace so the lever arm is horizontal and apply your body weight. If wheel is stuck on hub, never kick the wheel when on the jack to remove it as this could cause the jack to fall. Call the NRMA for assistance if the nuts are stuck.
Continue to turn the jack handle until the flat tyre is about five centimetres off the ground. You will now be able to easily remove the loose wheel nuts/bolts using the wheel brace or your fingers and remove the wheel. Take your spare wheel out of the boot and secure the flat tyre and wheel in its place.
With the tyre and wheel upright on the ground in roughly the right position, line up the holes of the spare wheel with the wheel studs on the car – it’s now easier to lift the wheel straight on.
An alignment pin tool helps locate wheels that use bolts in the right position, as they will not have studs to do this.
Tighten all the wheel nuts/bolts by hand, starting from the bottom, which will hold the wheel in place. Using the wheel brace, gently tighten – it’s safest to fully tighten them later, when the car has been lowered back onto the ground.
Turn the handle slowly to lower the jack until the new wheel and tyre takes the weight of the car, then slide the jack out from under the car. Just like when you loosened the nuts, keep your arm and back straight and the wheel brace horizontal to the ground. Use the weight of your body to tighten each wheel nut or bolt firmly – make sure the wheel is not loose.
Place the jack and wheel brace back in the boot. You have finished changing your flat tyre!
If you have one, use a tyre pressure gauge to check the spare wheel is fully inflated. Alternatively, drive carefully to a petrol station and use the gauge there. Pump up the tyre to the recommend pressure – as detailed in the handbook – if necessary.
Also remember to put the flat or damaged wheel in the spare-wheel well and get it repaired or replaced as soon as possible.
Many new cars, especially smaller models, are sold without a full-sized spare wheel. The two most common alternatives are a temporary use or space saver spare, and an inflator kit.
A temporary use spare wheel is a narrower version of the real article, designed to save space in the boot. The process for fitting a temporary use wheel is the same as outlined above, but as the name implies these wheels have limitations (such as a maximum 80km/h speed limit) and are only designed to get you home or to the nearest tyre shop. Replace the temporary spare with a proper wheel as soon as possible.
An inflator kit, also known as a puncture repair kit, is designed to plug small punctures such as those caused by nails or screws. If the hole is larger than a couple of centimetres across, an inflator kit likely won’t solve the problem and you’ll need to call NRMA roadside assistance. The kit typically consists of a bottle of sealant and a compressor for pumping up the tyre.
To use it, remove the valve from the afflicted tyre (just as you would when pumping up your tyres at a servo) and screw on the sealant bottle. The sealant will automatically spread itself around the inside of the tyre, gumming up any leaks. You’ll then need to plug the compressor into your car’s 12-volt socket and start the engine to power it up. It’s then simply a case of attaching the compressor to the valve and inflating the tyre to the recommended pressure.
Sealant is only a temporary solution – make sure you have the punctured tyre repaired or replaced as soon as possible.