The Turtle Coast
FEBRUARY 2025: Turtle hatching season is now in full swing! Our sources tell us Mon Repos is seeing a bumper year for this amazing natural event and we’re going to have boots on the sand as it happens – keep an eye on our social media channels for the latest.
Rockhampton Airport doesn’t, surprisingly, smell like sweaty cowboys and outback dust. Instead, the air is filled with anticipation and the slight tang of something tropical as we make our way to Sixt car rental to pick up our shiny Subaru Outback, which floats us through the changing landscape from the arid inland to the lush tropical coast.
Its radar-guided cruise-control feels like driving on autopilot—so much so we almost miss the speed-limit quirks. Roads that would be 60km/h in NSW are 100 km/h here. A school zone flashes “Slow down to 80 km/h.”
First on our road trip is NRMA Capricorn Yeppoon Holiday Park. It’s one of those places you daydream about while stuck in city traffic – perfect weather all-year-round, lazy afternoons sipping sundowners, and movies under the stars.
After checking in we head to High Valley Dawn Permaculture Farm to meet Ross O’Reilly, a character straight out of a Netflix docuseries about wellness and redemption. This former international rugby league coach turned permaculture guru can toss a footy around before calmly explaining how to plant organic crops. Ross’ passion for sustainable living and his enormous heart are palpable as we wander around his undulating 140-acre farm.
Just being here drops my blood pressure. Dinner at Beaches Restaurant is another highlight. Located metres from Kemp Beach, it redefines ‘farm to table’. The yummy burgers are made from moo-moos from Ross’s farm. The meal is cooked by a chef who’s been through rehab, now mentored by Ross as part of his mission to give people a fresh start. So the burger’s more than a meal – it’s a testament to second chances.
Paired with a crisp, locally brewed craft beer and the sound of waves crashing nearby, it’s one of those meals that lingers in your memory long after the plates are cleared.
The following day we venture to Capricorn Coast National Park for a short but strenuous hike up to Double Head Lookout. As someone who considers strolling through Bunnings as my weekly cardio, the uphill hike tests my limits, but the views are worth the effort. Volcanic plugs, sprawling coastlines – it’s the kind of scenery that makes you feel like you’ve earned an extra glass of wine later.
The drive south to NRMA Agnes Water Holiday Park is another scenic delight, with the landscape shifting yet again. By the time we arrive at this coastal gem we’re in love. Our luxury studio villa perches high over a beautiful sweep of green lawn leading down to the beach, reminiscent of the famed Kims Beach Hideaway on the Central Coast. There’s even an on-site café with coffee good enough to rival Sydney’s finest.
That arvo, we head over to the twin town of 1770, where Captain Cook landed in – you guessed it – 1770. The LARC tour is a treat. If you’ve never ridden a pink amphibious vehicle straight from land into water, you haven’t lived. Skipper Neil keeps us entertained with his witty commentary, steering us across sandbars and into inlets.
We trundle along, feeling like explorers on a grand adventure, until we pause at a dead greenback turtle that’s swallowed too much plastic. A grim reminder that our impact on these pristine areas isn’t always a lark.
That night, we stroll from our digs at NRMA ‘Aggy Waters’ to Drift and Wood for tea. With a fat pizza and a bottle of plonk, we let the stresses of the day melt away, pondering turtles and the logic of a ‘garlic pizza’ before pizza.
The following day we embark on a bushwalk with the affable Michael Oliver at Travellers Rest 1770. Michael makes flora and fauna fascinating for even the most uninterested listener. His knowledge of native plants and birds is peerless, though I can’t say the same for my appreciation of bush tucker. An acquired taste. But his boardwalk, built with all levels of mobility in mind, makes for a smooth stroll without the fear of twisted ankles or leeches.
From there, we’re back in the Subaru and on the sugar-cane-framed road to Bundaberg, or Bundy as the locals call it. Arriving at NRMA Turtle Sands Resort feels like stepping into the ultimate eco-luxe destination. Set against the stunning backdrop of Mon Repos Beach at Bundy, this resort perfectly balances luxury with a deep respect for nature.
The resort’s commitment to conservation greets you immediately at check in, where we’re inducted into the ‘turtle promise’ – a pledge to help protect the greenback turtles that call this stretch of coastline home. From November to March, these remarkable creatures’ nest on the beach, and Turtle Sands takes their protection very seriously.
By nightfall, we’re embracing the resort’s ‘lights out’ policy, designed to prevent disorientating the baby turtles as they make their flippery dash from the dunes to ocean under the cover of darkness. There’s a quiet thrill in knowing our stay contributes somehow.
Our beach villa is so luxurious it feels like it belongs on the Côte d'Azur, with sleek modern furnishings, a high-spec finish, and an ocean view that steals your breath. The spacious outdoor area comes equipped with a bespoke barbecue space, perfect for enjoying a sunset meal while listening to the long shhh of the waves.
Here we immerse ourselves in nature without sacrificing the comforts of a five-star resort. One of the most whimsical touches is the giant turtle-shaped swimming pool. It’s both fun and symbolic, making you feel connected to the creatures the resort aims to protect. After a dip, we find ourselves lounging poolside, soaking up the serenity. It perfectly underscores the resort’s eco-friendly ethos subtly woven into every element of the experience, from the sustainably sourced materials to the solar-powered amenities.
Indeed, Turtle Sands is a fully immersive eco-experience. The resort offers guided tours with local rangers and Indigenous guides, giving guests the chance to witness the turtle nesting process up close. Even if you’re not there during nesting season, the surrounding nature reserves and walking trails ensure there’s always something to marvel at.
The connection between luxury and the natural world feels seamless, and as we settle into the rhythms of the resort, it’s clear that Turtle Sands is setting the gold standard for eco-tourism in Australia.
Monsoon Aquatics is the next stop. It’s not often you get to visit a farm that’s helping rejuvenate the Great Barrier Reef. But this is no ordinary farm – it’s a coral farm. The eerie blue lighting above the tanks gives the whole experience a surreal, almost sci-fi feel. It’s like stepping into a futuristic lab, but instead of aliens, we’re greeted by vibrant, growing coral, soon to be transplanted back into the wild or into someone’s fish tank.
If you find snorkelling mildly terrifying, this is the perfect way to get up close with Nemo without a wetsuit. Plus, Monsoon Aquatics won Exporter of the Year in 2021, proving that saving the planet can also be good business.
The next morning, we visit One Little Farm for a proper farm-to-table breakfast. The freshness of the ingredients makes it one of those meals you never want to end. Toe-curling coffee, too.
After this wholesome start, we meet Woz for our Taribelang Bunda Cultural Tour. Woz, our first female Indigenous guide, brings an endearing warmth and openness to her storytelling. She shares heartfelt yarns of the local Bundy Indigenous community, including a tale about her niece stumbling upon sacred men’s initiation circles at the local Girl Guides campsite.
It underscores the need for better engagement between local councils and Indigenous groups, something Woz is passionate about. Fortunately, the NRMA has been on the front foot, working closely with Indigenous groups since taking over Turtle Sands, she says.
Lunch at Grunske’s By the River offers a riparian seafood feast so fresh the crabs could’ve walked off the boat and onto our plates. However, the food comes to our table in plastic containers and, after witnessing our turtle on the LARC tour, we feel a twinge of guilt. Still, our concern is tempered with an oyster in one hand and a glass of crisp rosé in the other.
Our afternoon is spent at Tinaberries, a charming farm where we indulge in farm-fresh strawberry ice-cream under shady trees. I’m not sure how much ice-cream makes it into my mouth versus my beard, but hey, it’s all part of the gig. Dinner that evening – at Water Street Kitchen, hidden away in the suburbs of Bundy – is a fittingly extravagant end to the day. The food is pricey but excellent.
On our final morning, we enjoy a quirky breakfast at The Garden Mill Café, where the bleating of goats and the crowing of roosters add a farmyard authenticity to our eggs. It’s the sister café to the excellent Windmill Café, where we lunched the day before, indulging in a poke bowl that wouldn’t be out of place in a Tetsuya’s kitchen.
Post-breakfast, we squeeze in a visit to the Bundaberg Brewed Drinks Barrel for a ginger beer tasting (who knew soft drinks could be so entertaining?), followed by the must-do Bundy Rum Distillery tour – a mullet, tattoo, and rum extravaganza.
To round off the trip, we visit Macadamias Australia, a family-run farm with over 60 years of history. The orchards stretch out in neat rows, and the air feels alive with the hard work and dedication of generations. As we stroll through the farm, we crack fresh macs under the trees with wooden mallets – a simple but satisfying task.
The nuts are unbelievably fresh, creamy, and slightly sweet. Inside the visitor centre, we sample an array of macadamia products, from nut butter to chocolate-covered treats. The restaurant, however, is a standout, serving delish macadamia-inspired meals, showcasing just how versatile this little nut can be, from savoury dishes to sweet desserts. By the end, we’re slightly sunburnt but incredibly content, stocking up on bags of fresh macadamias for the road ahead.
Finally, we drive to NRMA Woodgate Holiday Park, which, like NRMA Yeppoon, is a budget option with a prime location. While it doesn’t have the glam of Turtle Sands or Agnes Waters, Woodgate punches above its weight by dint of location: right on the beach. The setting is unbeatable, and the relaxed vibe makes it the perfect place to wind down.
That evening, the courtesy bus picks us up and takes us to the cheerful Woodgate Pub. Perched on the deck with a steak and a bottle of red, we take in the beautiful beach views as the sun sets, casting a golden glow over the tropical sea. Craig, the pub manager doubling as our courtesy bus driver, kindly schleps us back to our digs at NRMA Woodgate Holiday Park just ten minutes down the road. The next morning, we drive through Woodgate and pass through the town of Isis en route to Hervey Bay for our direct flight back to Sydney.
